Aperitivo!

While I couldn't get many sights in yesterday, I had one of the most wonderful Milanese experiences tonight: the Aperitivo!

You & I might call this phenomenon "Happy Hour", but the key word here is PHENOMENON! It was incredible! Emanuela and I went to Corso Sempione -- near Milan's Peach Arch (Arco della Pace) -- and one of her favorite Aperitivos. Ultimately, it was a super chic, well-designed bar (seriously! awesome design; you should have seen the basement bathrooms!), sit down, order (and pay) for a beverage, then take advantage of a HUGE buffet!

We might be pupu at home; maybe even a basket of nachos and salsa at a Mexican restaurant. Here, you might pay a bit more for the drink (a whopping 7 Euros each... or $9.75, including tax & gratuity!), and the food was incredible! Pastas, cous cous, sausages, skewers, salads, potato wedges, gnocci! I ultimately had two drinks and two rounds of full plates. Dinner, friends, was served! And in an oh so Milanese way!

Milan. Well, I tried!

Buongiorno from Milan! This trip wouldn't be this trip without yet another flight and a continued swollen ankle. This time, I find myself in Italia!

After checking in to the hotel, I took a chance with the weather and headed out -- sans umbrella, mind you -- on the Milan subway to try to find Santa Maria delle Grazie and visit one of the most famous (& controversial) works of art in the world, Leonardo da Vinci's 'The Last Summer'.

Unfortunately, by the time I arrived (~3PM), they were sold out of tickets for the afternoon. Keep in mind that after 21 years of restoration and in a hope to keep this masterpiece around for... ever... they allow only 25 visitors every 15 minutes. Alas that I did not get in, but was OH SO close! I'll plan better next go!

Oh, and when I walk by the umbrellas available for use in the hotel lobby, I'll take one. Hello DRENCHED!

Lazy Saturday

Today is the first day in well over two weeks that I had no obligation. No plane to catch. No job to get to. No schedule to keep. And I so needed it.

After work last night, I ventured out to East Putney to enjoy dinner with my dear friends Brian, Kirsten & Tess Hennigan (the latter whose first birthday is in two weeks!). I made it home late and slept in this morning even later. HEAVEN.

I enjoyed a super slow morning here at the hotel, then enjoyed a trek to the mayhem that is Borough Market, one of the largest food markets in the world. I must tell you, Avid Reader, even as one of the largest, it still wasn't large enough as it was PACKED. One could argue that the masses of people were my worst nightmare, but the sights and smells and stalls were incredible and I enjoyed nearly every moment.

Later, Brian Hennigan arrived with Tess and we enjoyed a pint at The Market Porter before heading to nearby to The George Inn for more beverages with some of his friends. Oh, and it just happens to have been serving the local community for the past three... HUNDRED... years. ARE YOU KIDDING ME?! Anyhoo, Brian had to head home to get Tess to nap, and I ultimately ended up hanging out a bit longer, enjoying laughs with his buddies Mark and Frank. A good time altogether!

And now I'm back at the hotel, packing up for tomorrow's obligation: my flight to Milan for two days of work in our Italy office. My journey is coming to a quick conclusion... and I'm home to Copperlicious soon!

There and Back Again

I spent an oh so quick 29 hours in Paris this week. The EuroStar train arrived at 11:30AM on Wednesday and I was back at Gare du Nord train station by 4:30 on Thursday. Though planned that way, I regret not getting more time. My colleague Emanuela said it best: 'Paris just seems like one of those cities that take over your heart.' Amen to that.

So, bonjour, Paris!
Et au revoir trop vite.

Hallo, Land o'Scots!

If you've been following along, Avid Reader, it should come as no surprise that I WENT TO SCOTLAND! I had long talked about having a Scottish adventure -- at least one outside of London -- and finally made it happen! I booked a flight Friday after work and flew to Aberdeen! And what an adventure it was!

You see, I have an old friend (see previous post!) who I knew was living somewhere in Scotland. With my mad online skillz, I did a quick search and discovered that Matt is the pastor at the Methlick Parish Church in Aberdeenshire. So I said to myself, "Self, why not? Methlick, here I come!"!

Though yet another flight, it was an easy one and I was quickly in the oil capital of Europe, Aberdeen. I bonded with Alex the AVIS guy and he upgraded me to a BMW 120d Diesel -- which became my new best friend. Granted, it was a friend I had to spend time getting to know as the driver's side was on the RIGHT side of the car! I definitely spend a lot of time reminding myself to drive on the left and after a while, definitely got the hang of it. Of course, forgetting to reach over my right shoulder for the seat belt was always my first reminder! And oddly, I couldn't seem to use the rear-view mirror and always wanted to look over my right shoulder to go in reverse. Needless to say, I bought the insurance, but never needed it! Definitely a success! But I digress...

With the only plan being to go to church on Sunday to see Matt preach and knowing I'd see him there, I opted for a dry run to Methlick quickly after I checked in to my hotel. It was no more than 1/2 hour to Methlick on nice, but definitely country roads... over rolling hills with lots of cows and sheep and fall colors galore. In short, it was stunning and exactly what I would have expected in the UK outside of the city. That said, getting to know the signs took some time and speed limits are rarely posted (understood to be 60mph). Before I knew it, however, I was in Methlick there was the church from the website! I made it! Dry run a success!

Pressing my luck, I parked at the church as I noticed some cars and an open door. I was warmly greeted by a dear Scottish grandma who told me that Matt & Julie were probably at home, then quickly got back to her knitting & natting. Of course she just told me they're "home". And by home, it could mean anywhere... in the SHIRE! But back to the adventure, I wandered up & down the town's road and was quickly called in to the town restaurant -- the Ythanview Hotel -- where a Scottish ale was calling my name. Jay Allen, the owner, served me an Avalanche Ale as well as his mean and "hot" curry -- both of which were delicious. Of course, after ordering and upon serving me the beer, he had to ask:

"So, what brings you here?"
"Well, I'm here to go to church, actually."
"I thought you might be a friend of Matt's."

After enjoying lunch and my delicious beer, Jay points down the road... follow that car... THERE!... turn right and he's the first house on the right. And done! All of three minutes later, I'm turning up the hill, into the sun, and a shadow passes the street in front of me. I wave.

"Hello?", the shadow responds, kindly, but unfamiliarly.
"I'm here to see you, actually," I say.
"Oh?"
"Hi Matt. It's Todd Moore."
"Todd Moo--? Todd Moore!"

It's a moment for the movies really. I can totally picture it in dramatic black & white, but instead it was in living color with the sun in my eyes and a old friend from a place and time far away in his. In all honesty, I think the moment -- and the next 15 minutes -- caught us both off-guard, even though I had quite the head start on it even happening to begin with.

Matt & I were able to catch up over tea in his kitchen for nearly an hour when his wonderful wife Julie (another friend from college) arrived home with three of their four kids: Chapman, Iona, and Amy Kate. Julie had much the same -- but even more dramatic -- realization of my presence and we fell easily into catch-up mode before their worlds became a flurry of activity around the kids and dinner plans and more.

Soon, it was time to leave them to their regular programming and I set off on Scottish adventures with my 120d, as if my mission had been accomplished. Oh, but it was only beginning...!

First stop? Cows! I pulled the "Hey Cow" trick learned from dear friends John & Amy. These ones just looked at me like I was some cuckoo American making noise. Like it's a different language... Stupid cows.

Second stop? Some crazy awesome church with an amazing cemetary in the front and behind. I can't tell you how many times I'd just be driving along and BAM! Amazing scenery or church or cemetary or animal or moment would just pop into view. It was a drive through some of the most amazing views at every turn. Amazing.

Third stop? Fyvie Castle! I'm actually convinced, Avid Reader, that somehow I need to own a castle. And have Victorian parties every weekend with merry-making and live music and masquerede masks and drama and mystery. If anyone is reading this who owns a castle and is looking to give it away to an amazingly organized, resourceful, and host-happy American, I am totally game. Let's talk! Point being, I could see myself living in and caring for a castle. From the gardening & landscaping (of course, I would outsource) to hosting and entertaining (in period costume, of course), I'd be the most amazing caretaker. I had a ball completely on my own at Fyvie taking timed photographs and making a general scene on the front lawn. In other words, I acted like I owned the joint. And just may someday!






All in all, it was a pretty awesome adventure as I headed back in to Aberdeen from Methlick. I found the town. I enjoyed a draught Scottish ale, some home-cooked curry from the hotel proprietor, a chance run-in with an old friend who I hadn't seen since 1996 nor talked to since 1998, met some judgmental cows, took some amazing photos, and pretended to own a castle. Point being, I crashed at my hotel within 5mins of keying in.

And given, Avid Reader, that I was O.U.T. out by 8PM (no joke!), I was wide awake at 4AM wondering what the day was going to bring. Futile attempts to fall back to sleep and realizing that my time in Scotland was limited, I opted to check out and hit the road with my trusted new BFF, the 120d. We drove into Aberdeen proper to check out the Brig o'Balgownie, as well as one of the oldest medieval churches in Scotland, the Cathedral Chuch of St. Machar.

Turns out, daylight savings had gone into effect while I was sleeping, so my 6AM arrival at the unlit bridge was actually only 5AM and it was PITCH BLACK. No bridge could be seen in the dark of night, so off to St. Machar I went. Word to the wise? Don't go to a medieval church in Scotland surrounded by a 6' stone wall filled in with tombstones and graves in the middle of the night. I kid you not, I was scared out of my wits!! However, being totally man-style, I thought to myself, "Self, the sun will come up soon enough and I'm sure will make for lovely photos". Another word to the wise... the sun doesn't come up in Scotland after daylight savings time has hit until well past half seven (7:30, UK style).

Thankful for a GPS, I tourned around Aberdeen for quite a while longer, learned that coffee shops -- there were two Starbucks' -- didn't open until 10AM, but McDonald's also made its global presence and its McCafe felt in a big way. I watched the sun come up over all kinds of spires and church towers and enjoyed a quiet morning in an amazing city. It felt like it was just me (& Ronald McDonald) and the street cleaners out, everyone trying to recover from a most amazing night before Halloween. Yes, in other words, the streets were litter central! :)

Back to daylight savings time and me still not actually knowing however, I hopped back in my trusted BMW and made my way out of the city and towards Methlick knowing that church was to begin at 11AM and there were most castles for me to discover.

First, I checked out Haddo House, a most stately manor with an incredible garden. Again, I thought of all of the awesome fetes I could host and biscuits I could serve in the stunning gardens. Sadly, I must tell you that these are places I could not bring my dad. Avid Reader, the grounds are literally spotted with pheasant and quail and all kinds of other hunter's treasure. Yes, dear Mike would THRIVE in Scotland, but I wouldn't with all of the gun shot clatter!

Next, I was able to check out Tolquhon Castle -- ruins really, but amazing nonetheless. There were a couple of more serious impressions here:

1. Were people really so short? Seriously, I had to duck to go through any door.
2. I couldn't believe I got to walk all over this place! How awesome is that?!
3. What happened? I mean, I get that the place has been around for hundreds of years, but seriously, what happened?
4. How in the world did one stay warm in places like this? There were chimneys & drain holes everywhere and we're talking stone walls. Talk to me about insulation.
5. What was life like? I mean, seriously, what was life like in Scotland in 1322? I've seen it captured on film, but seriously. Have you ever wondered?

And of course, in all my wonderment, I quickly realized that even though I had discovered an additional hour, I was going to be late for church! No! Fortunately, my BFF, the 120d, raced me quickly through back roads and I entered the Methlick Parish Church a full two minutes before things got started!

Matt was amazing -- he always was an awesome orator. And I found myself chuckling at how easily this man, this preacher, became the same person I knew in college. All this time had passed, yet none at all relative to watching him engage and hearing his voice. It was pretty incredible. There's a saying that one can't judge one's own age, but only can do in the age of one's children. This has to be true since I don't have kids, since I haven't aged a day (save the follical challenges) and since I saw Matt as my college roommate all over again.

After church, I was invited to lunch at the Manse (the parsonage, we might call it) and got to spend more time with Matt in his study, then with his kids, playing games in the backyard. I also helped in the mayhem of getting them ready for trick-or-treating while also helping Matt with a welcoming bonfire and over more conversation. The day felt like it could have been at any time and at any place in its normalcy. But the weekend itself started from a place of pure adventure and ended in a place where I know I just might not ever see my friend again.

But having gotten the snapshot, having had a much-needed conversation, having met and played with his kids -- the ones he now has, but didn't when he told me on a Seattle Metro bus he would be excited for them to meet Uncle Todd -- and to having gone on the adventure when it probably cost a little too much, made me a little too tired, and seemed a little crazy, I feel whole and complete and touched.

And thankful you made it this far. Thank you, Avid Reader, for helping me make any of these adventures real just by me getting to share them with you. Your readership is a gift to me, you have no idea.

Hall of Fame Moment

While I haven't yet posted a good recap of the trip itself, I had contacted our hometown newspaper prior to our trip to ask them if it was something worth covering. The Editor jumped at the chance, assigned Dick Mason -- who knew my family well -- to the story, and published this article. I'm unclear if the article itself included any photos, so any below are those that I added. Enjoy!


Written by Dick Mason
The Observer
November 02, 2010

The question gave Mike Moore, La Grande High School’s head boys basketball coach from 1980 to 1984, reason to pause. "I have to take a deep breath, it was a touching moment," Moore said.

Moore had just been asked about what it was like the moment he and his wife, Linda, received the most memorable of anniversary gifts. One that allowed the couple to again celebrate the legacy of their daughter Laura, perhaps the greatest girls basketball player in La Grande High School history.

Earlier this fall Laura’s parents were in Chicago celebrating their 41st anniversary with sons Todd and Kevin. They were planning to soon make return trips to their homes in the Northwest when Todd suddenly changed their travel itineraries — altering their schedule in storybook fashion.

Todd presented his parents and brother Kevin with tickets for a flight to the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame in Springfield, Mass. The Naismith Hall of Fame has enormous meaning to the Moore family because Laura’s name is listed in it. She won the national Elks Hoop Shoot in the age 8-9 girls division three decades ago.

Upon receiving the tickets to Springfield, Mike and Linda Moore, who live in Boise, received a bonus. They learned Laura would be flying into Springfield to meet them at the hall of fame. An unforgettable family trip now awaited the Moores.

"This had been on my bucket list," said Mike, who is retired.

The moment Mike and Linda learned of the trip, they were heightened emotionally by the unofficial boarding passes Todd presented them. Each had a photo of Laura with her parents and a basketball. The photo had appeared in The Observer three decades ago.

When the family arrived at the Naismith Basketball Hall of Fame a few days later their emotions were in check. The family was set to enjoy one of the most memorable of experiences. It was an experience enhanced by members of the staff at the hall of fame.

"They were so excited when they learned that a hall of famer was present. They were really buzzing," Todd said.

The staff bent over backward to make the Moores feel welcome after learning about Laura. "They gave us the gold treatment," Mike said.

People left their offices throughout the building to greet Laura and her family.

The Moores had no trouble finding the Elks Hoop Shoot plaque upon which Laura’s name is engraved. It is in a prominent portion of the hall, one next to a major Michael Jordan display.

Seeing the Elks Hoop Shoot plaque likely triggered a flood of sentimental memories for Laura because winning the title was a family affair. Her parents and brothers were with her in Indianapolis three decades ago when she won the crown.

Laura later placed second at the Elks Hoop Shoot in her age division as a 13-year-old.

Her hoop shoot achievements were the start of a decorated career. Moore made Oregon’s all-state team each of the three years she played for LHS. She transferred to Pendleton her senior year after her father accepted a job there as assistant principal of Pendleton High School. Laura made the all-state team a fourth-time in 1989 during her senior year at Pendleton High.

Laura was such a standout at Pendleton that after graduating her number, 22, was retired by the high school.

A deadly three-point shooter blessed with uncommon basketball instincts, Laura was heavily recruited almost from the start of her high school career. Much of the mail she received from universities wooing her was sent to LHS. A school official at the time said it seemed that Moore received more mail at LHS during her junior year than the rest of the school combined.

Laura eventually accepted a scholarship from the University of Washington, where she enjoyed a successful four-year career. She helped the Huskies make the NCAA tournament three times and was a starter her junior and senior years.

Today Laura, 39, lives in Beaverton where she is the owner of Express Professionals, a temporary hiring company. She has nothing but fond memories of her years growing up in La Grande. "I wouldn’t change anything," she said of her La Grande experiences.

The national Elks Hoop Shoot Moore won in Indianapolis three decades ago is today conducted at the Naismith Basketball Hall of Fame. The competition is on its "Court of Dreams." The floor is one visitors can play on and a court the Moore family conducted a free throw contest on. Laura, who had not played basketball in about a year, won it, making 30 of 35 free throws to edge her father by one.

Mike, like his daughter, has a sterling resume as a hoopster. He played at EOU about four decades ago. The 1969-70 team he played for is in Eastern’s athletic hall of fame. Mike, who graduated from Eastern in 1970, has fond memories of La Grande. "It is a very special place," he said.

The chance to play basketball with his family on the Court of Dreams will long remain a highlight of the family’s visit to Springfield in the mind of Todd. "It was youthful joy. We (he and his brother and sister) were like kids growing up again," said Todd, who lives in Seattle.

Today Mike, when reflecting on the Elks Hoop Shoot title his daughter won, says his daughter did not initially appreciate the magnitude of winning the Elks Hoop Shoot.

"I don’t think Laura knew the significance of it. She was just a happy-go-lucky kid," Mike said. "Who knew that years later her name would be in the Hall of Fame?"

Be slow in choosing a friend, but slower in changing him. -- Scottish proverb

I'll post details of my adventure to Scotland in a bit, but the adventure wouldn't have been so without the hope of seeing an old friend, Matt Canlis.

I got to peek in to his world, meet & play with his four kids (Chapman, Madelyne, Iona, Amy Kate), break bread with his family, and just BE a part of his life for a short spell -- and share my story since with my old, valued friend.

Matt & I hadn't spoken in a good 15 years, Avid Reader. And I can't tell you how good it feels that we did.