DMZ

Today, I had the chance to do something out of this world: I visted Korea's Demilitarized Zone -- a buffer zone between North and South Korea separating Communist and Democratic ideologies. It's ironic to me that it's called a Demilitarized Zone when it fact, it's lined with armed forces looking in/across/through. You'd think the world on either side of the DMZ would actually be called demilitarized, but who am I to pen political decree?

First stop: Freedom Bridge. Crossing the Imjin River, we were told that this is the bridge on which war captives crossed celebrating their freedom and return to South Korea. It was a somber start to what would have been just another day in the Korean countryside. Interestingly, all around the South Korean side of the bridge were things like the Peace Bell and a collection of stones that "saw action" in 88 major world wars, including the Civil War, for example. All were designed with the hope of peace and reunification.

We then trekked to the DMZ Exhibition Hall and the famous Third Tunnel. Unfortunately, photos were strictly forbidden, but the 358m hike into the earth at an 11 degree angle was something else. I was pleased to have had a construction hard hat as I can't tell you how many times I was whomped up side of the head; for the most part, I had to walk bent over. Interestingly, there's an alleged debate on who actually drilled the incursion tunnels -- each side claiming the other (though the South with irrefutable evidence, in my mind) -- but the South Koreans are smartly capitizing regardless! Let's just say I wasn't the only tourist there today.

Our third stop was at the Observation Deck atop the highest peak in the area. Again, the South built a viewing platform over which to watch the entire valley. It was a hotly contested peak as on a clear day, one can see all the way south to the Seoul Tower 40 miles away. And speaking of clear days, it was rather clear today! Our guide stated that these days happen no more than 12-15 days/year -- we got lucky!

More photos rules were in effect here -- one could only take shots from Photo Line! Afterwards -- not before, of course -- we found out that the reason is to disable photos of the South Korean military equipment down the face of the hill. Take all the photos of the other side that you want, our tour guide, Mia said. Just from BEHIND THE YELLOW LINE!

The other good stories from atop the mountain related to the North and South Korean flags (yes, there are two villages the DMZ). Over the years, I guess, each put up a flag and the other raised theirs higher. This went back and forth until the North erected the world's tallest flag pole at 160m. People are starving; they can't afford electricty to power their country; but they have the world's tallest flag though! So much for our ball of string.

The final stop in the Military Area was Dorasan Station. Interestingly, it was refurbished in the hope that it will someday be the first stop to the north vs. the last of the south. Claim to fames here are a George Bush-signed railroad tie and a placard of donors who raised $1M USD to fun the tracks to North Korea. Needless to say, I only found the armed military police in front of an operatal sign, but empty station photo-worthy.

The day ended with us rushing out of the Military Area -- and passing back through the Unification Bridge and it's maze of blockades so no one can quickly drive here nor there. The tour was sponsored by the Korean government so we had to stop at an Amythest factory to check out Korea's national stone. Purple jewels, pretty.

All in all, an amazing day. One that I'll remember as one of those days when I can't believe the world is how it is sometimes. While somber, I also thought it silly at times (i.e. flag games), and scary at others. I heard the world "propoganda" more times in 6 hours than I will for the rest of my life, I'm convinced.

So, now off to Tokyo for a few days before a return to the States. Farewell from Seoul, Avid Reader!

p.s. is it bad that I've had the theme song from this stuck in my head all day?